International Consensus on Anti-Aging Dermocosmetics and Skin Care for Clinical Practice Using the RAND/UCLA Appropriateness Method.

BACKGROUND: The objective was to provide international recommendations on anti-aging dermocosmetics for clinical practice starting with essential ingredients for protection and repair before working up to advanced products for specific concerns.  Methods: Seven international experts reviewed 8 hypothetical case scenarios covering different ages, skin issues (eg, sensitivity, acne, melasma), and exposure to exposome factors for both sexes and all Fitzpatrick skin types (FST). The RAND/UCLA appropriateness method was used to obtain consensus. Seventeen key ingredients were rated on a scale from 1 (totally inappropriate) to 9 (totally appropriate). Statistical analysis, 2 meetings, and email discussions refined the recommendations. RESULTS: High-factor broad-spectrum sunscreen (ie, protects against ultraviolet [UV] A and B rays), niacinamide, and other topical antioxidants were recommended for all scenarios. Further discussions were required for other ingredients. Tinted sunscreen/iron oxide were recommended for all FST, although compliance may be sub-optimal for darker skin phototypes (IV-VI), if not cosmetically acceptable. Combining a facial foundation with broad-spectrum sunscreen was recommended for darker phototypes to obtain visible light protection closely matching diverse color tones. Retinols were not recommended as a first-line treatment for sensitive skin, especially FST V and VI, due to the risk of irritation. After ablative laser treatment, alpha hydroxy acids should be avoided or used with caution in FST IV to VI due to the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. CONCLUSION: We describe a simple, practical tool for use in daily dermatology consultations for providing recommendations on anti-aging dermocosmetics to cover diverse and inclusive populations of patients, addressing all skin types and international needs.  J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(1):1337-1343.     doi:10.36849/JDD.7798.

Durability of the improvement of collagen I and collagen III with the use of oral isotretinoin in the treatment of photoaging.

BACKGROUND: Oral isotretinoin (ISO) is the drug of choice for the treatment of severe acne. For photoaging treatment, ISO has been proved to be effective in some controlled and noncontrolled trials and is an alternative to topical retinoic acid (RA) therapy, which causes an expected skin irritation. OBJECTIVE: To evaluate and compare the skin remodeling in patients taking ISO 20 mg 3 times a week for 12 weeks and 12 weeks after the end of the treatment to quantify collagen I and collagen III augmentation. MATERIAL AND METHODS: Immunohistochemical studies were performed to evaluate the expression of collagen I and collagen III, metalloproteinases (MMPs) -1, -3, -7, -9, -12, and the tissue inhibitor of MMP type-1 (TIMP-1) of the skin of 20 45 to 50-year-old women through morphometry in a semiquantitative method. The inclusion criteria were facial aging 2 and 3 of Glogau's classification, with phototypes between II and V who had not entered menopause. Biopsies of the skin of the left preauricular region were performed at three different times: pre-treatment (T0), end of 12-week treatment (T1), and 12 weeks posttreatment (T2). RESULTS: Collagen fibers I and III increased with statistical significance in T1 (50.7%; P = 0.012) but not in T2 (49.7%), which in turn was higher than in T0 (47.2%) for collagen I and T1 (33.3%; P = 0.002) but not in T2 (32.7%), and also was higher than T0 (32.0%) for collagen III. MMP-9 presented a decreased activity with statistical significance in T1 (P = 0.047) and T2 (P = 0.058). MMP-1 showed a reduction in T2 only (P = 0.015). MMPs -3, -7, -12, and TIMP-1 did not present significant modification in their expressions during or after the treatment. CONCLUSIONS: Low-dose ISO is effective in remodeling the extracellular matrix (ECM). This study found that the increase of collagen occurs through the augmentation of both collagen I and collagen III fibers. With originality, it was possible to verify the durability of these fibers for at least 12 weeks. This may be related to the decrease in MMP-9 expression verified at the end of the treatment and 12 weeks posttreatment.

Precision of Soft-Tissue Filler Injections: An Ultrasound-Based Verification Study.

BACKGROUND: Uncontrolled product spread is an important issue to consider in facial filler injections. Lack of precision can result in reduced effectiveness and surface projection, as well as irregularities and product visibility. OBJECTIVES: The authors sought to assess the precision of soft-tissue filler injections in the face by employing a cannula. METHODS: This single-center observational study investigated soft-tissue filler distribution utilizing real-time non-invasive ultrasound imaging. Outcome parameters included (1) the tissue plane of product distribution, (2) the extent of horizontal as well as vertical product spread at the injection site, and (3) the product surface area taking into account the multifactorial influence of several independent variables. Participants were followed up to 30 days post-injection. RESULTS: A total 100 facial injections were performed in 8 patients (2 males, 6 females) with a mean age of 37.20 (±6.34) years and a mean BMI of 22.21 (±1.39) kg/m.2. The plane of product distribution remained constant in approximately 90% of cases at day 0 (d0), d14, and d30. Mean horizontal product spread was higher compared with vertical spread, and both significantly decreased over all time points (P < .001). Mean product surface area was 22.51 ± 16.34 mm2 at d0, 15.97 ± 11.28 mm2 at d14, and 12.9 ± 9.15 mm2 at d30. Analysis employing generalized linear models revealed that injection volume and injection depth significantly influenced product surface area. CONCLUSIONS: Injection of soft-tissue filler employing a cannula allows precise application of the product within the intended tissue plane. Precision can be improved by injecting less product into deeper tissue layers.

Novel Classifications for Muscular Contraction of the Lower Face and Neck.

BACKGROUND: Currently, there are no scales that address lower-face muscular contraction patterns, and there is only one that addresses platysmal bands. OBJECTIVE: The goal of this article is to create scales to classify the strength and contraction patterns of the lower face and neck based on (1) the muscular anatomy and contraction patterns of the platysma and (2) the strength of the depressor anguli oris (DAO). METHODS: Three hundred sixty patients participated in the study. Standardized photogarphs were taken in an effort to characterize muscle contraction patterns. RESULTS: A novel classification measuring the strength of the DAO is presented. For the DAO, 4 different contraction patterns were observed: Type 1 (38%), Type 0 (26.3%), Type 2 (25.2%), and Type 3 (8.6%). The remainder (1.9%) used asymmetric contraction. For platysmal bands, 3 different contraction patterns were observed: complete contraction (64.53%), lateral contraction (19.83%), and central contraction pattern (11.73%). A small percentage of patients (3.91%) had an asymmetric contraction pattern. CONCLUSION: Categorization of contraction of the DAO and platysmal bands into these proposed classifications provides objective measurements that can be helpful for designing treatment protocols and assessing response to treatment.